A Week in Rome: February 2005 Archives

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It's one of the best sights in Rome, and must be seen after dark to be truly appreciated. It's not by Michelangelo or Bernini, and you won't find it in most art history textbooks. But it is one of the most memorable sculptures in town. It's the Trevi Fountain, nestled in rabbit-warren streets in the heart of old Rome.

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A long subway ride from the old city, deep in the Roman suburbs, is a massive but ordinary-looking outcropping of the Vatican known commonly as St. Paul's Outside the Walls (of the city of Rome). One of the largest churches in the world, it is about as far from any other tourist attraction as you can get and still be roughly inside Rome. On the blustery November afternoon when we took the trip, we thought we'd see the peaceful columns of a stately cathedral, good for a picture or two. We got a full-blown religious experience.